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Luffe 37 basic trim by Oluf Jørgensen |
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Fredag, 10 Juli 2009
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Skrevet af Emil Christiansen
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Trimming of the rig:
The slope of the mast should be 67 centimeter from the back of the mast and the point where a weight suspended from the main halyard is crossing the boom. Further trimming of the mast requires the running backstay to be set loosely. The top-shrouds should be set with high tension and the middle-shrouds with lesser tension. Before setting the shrouds make sure the mast is in the center of the boat. Forward basic shrouds shall be set with tension and the aft basic shrouds need adjustment accordantly to the shape of the main. – in general a flat main requires reasonable tension on the aft basic shrouds and a deeper main a more loosely set-up. Wedges in the deck call on very different opinions and on D 160 Oluf sailed without any wedges at all. If you have a deep mainsail it is an advantage to pre-bend the mast with a wedge between the deck and the aft of the mast. Remember the keep the J-measure. After that, it is very important to mark the running backstays. Put three marks for light, medium and heavy air. Be sure the marks are similar in both sides. Place a man on the deck with the backstays set for medium air and check whether the tension is similar.
The backstay is marked on the water and should be in accordance with the marks of the running backstays. Before moving to the sail trim Oluf reminds us not to set the headsail before the backstays are set on their marks as described above. It is also a good idea to mark the halyard of the mainsail. Where the Luffe is most difficult is when tacking so we will focus on this part.
Tacking in light air with main and genoa:
The running backstays should be loose. Sheet the main so the boom is in the centerline of the boat by carrying the traveler about 20 cm to the weather. Changing the leech tension (twist) is accomplished by either trimming in the mainsheet or by ease it - eventually the vang. In general all the telltales should point nice and straight aft. For the thin air make the main deep by setting the halyard and outhaul with light tension. The lead position of the headsail is decided the following way. Find the right (neutral) lead position in medium air by looking at the telltales. When tacking seek to wind and when all telltale stalls at the same time the correct sheet lead position has been reached. We return to the conditions in light air. Set the halyard with ease luff eventually with small wrinkles and the lead position 10 cm. compared with the neutral point. Take in the sheet so the gab between the upper spreader and the headsail is 5 cm.
Tacking in medium air with main and genoa:
The running backstays should be quite tight at the middle mark as mentioned above. Set the main harder in both the halyard and the outhaul. Place the traveler in the centerline and adjust the leech in the main with the mainsheet. Normally you don’t sheet to the leeward. Set the backstay at the middle mark. Sheet the headsail in the neutral position and haul the genoa in to the upper spreaders. Use the cunningham to remove wrinkles in the lower one third of the main. The vang is loosely set. The halyard of the genoa is set with just enough tension to get rid of the wrinkles. Non Kevlar/Mylar sail should have more tension because they can be stretched more.
Tacking in heavy air with main and jib:
Set the running backstays very hard so they are at the mark we discussed earlier. The halyard of the main is tightened more (also on the halyard it is a god idea to set marks) and the outhaul stretch the sail to the maximum measure. Set the backstay at the mark for heavy weather, which equals 10 cm wire compared with the setting in light air. Carry the traveler up to 30 cm. to leeward. The main is adjusted more with the traveler than the sheet. Twist the sails plentiful and give the vang plenty of power.
Set the halyard of the jib plentiful but not so hard that vertical wrinkles will show up in the sail. The lead should be in neutral position and you can find this position the same way as we did with the genoa. If the wind increases further the lead has to be moved aft. The leech of the jib should be placed about the edge of the upper spreader.
Spinnaker handling and other tips:
Oluf Jørgensen sets the spinnaker ahead of the middle-shrouds in the gunwale. Remember to separate the corners fast enough when the spinnaker is hoisted, especially the guy. Place the crew with the helmsman aft and all the crew should be placed behind the entrance of the saloon. This is also a key factor when tacking. It is a god idea with adjustable leads for the headsails. Eventually they can be linked together so only one line for adjustment is necessary. To many luffe sailors are tacking badly and they loose to much here. Place a man to leeward who in the tacking can help the genoa over the topsides. Right after tacking the speed needs the highest priority and when max speed are achieved focus on the angle to the wind.
Remember; don’t give the kevlar sails too much halyard, since they can be over stretched. Tacking in waves requires deep headsails and use flat headsails when the water is calm.
If you are reaching with the genoa, it will pay off to place a temporary lead in the gunwale.
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